Whirlpool Washer Error Codes Guide

Quick answer: Whirlpool washers use two kinds of codes: plain-word messages such as LF, drn, LdL and Sud that usually have a simple fix, and F# E# codes, where F is the system and E is the specific fault. F8 E1 is slow fill, F9 E1 is slow drain, F5 E2 is a door that will not lock and F7 E1 is a motor speed problem.

Whirlpool front-load and top-load washers show codes on the display, sometimes alternating "F8" and "E1" rather than showing them together. Whirlpool notes that its published lists may not cover every code on every model, so your owner's manual is the final word. For many F# E# codes, the first step is a power reset: unplug the washer or switch off its breaker for five minutes, reconnect, choose a cycle and press Start.

Whirlpool Washer Error Codes list

F8 E1 / LF / Lo FL

Long fill: the washer is not sensing enough incoming water

Common causes: Faucets not fully open, kinked hoses, clogged inlet screens, anti-flood devices that restrict flow, or a drain hose pushed too far into the standpipe so water siphons out

What you can try: Open hot and cold faucets fully (both must be connected), straighten the hoses and make sure the drain hose goes no more than about 4.5 inches into the standpipe.

Call a technician if: Supply and drain hose setup are correct and the washer still fills slowly or not at all.

F9 E1 / drn

Long drain: draining takes longer than expected (often over 8 minutes)

Common causes: Kinked or clogged drain hose, a drain hose sealed into the standpipe with no air gap, a clogged pump filter on some front-loaders, or excess suds

What you can try: Check the drain hose for kinks and keep an air gap at the standpipe. Use HE detergent only.

Call a technician if: The hose and setup are fine, which points to a blocked or failed drain pump.

F5 E2

Door is not locking (front-load)

Common causes: Something blocking the door or a failed door lock

What you can try: Clear the door opening, close it firmly, then press Pause/Cancel twice and Power once.

Call a technician if: The code returns with nothing in the way.

F7 E1

Motor speed sensing error

Common causes: Shipping bolts left in a new washer, an overloaded drum, or a motor or sensor fault

What you can try: On a new install, confirm all shipping bolts are out. Remove some laundry, then clear the code with Pause/Cancel twice and Power once.

Call a technician if: It appears on normal loads. The motor and its control need testing.

LdL

Lid will not lock (top-load)

Common causes: Laundry caught under the lid, or detergent buildup around the lid lock

What you can try: Check for items under the lid and wipe buildup off the lock area with a damp cloth.

Call a technician if: The lid closes cleanly and the code stays.

LdU

Lid will not unlock

Common causes: A laundry basket or other object sitting on the lid

What you can try: Remove everything from the top of the washer.

Call a technician if: The lid stays locked with nothing on it after the cycle ends.

Lid

Lid left open

Common causes: The lid was opened during the cycle

What you can try: Close the lid. If it was open more than 10 minutes, the cycle resets and drains, so restart without adding more detergent.

Call a technician if: The lid is shut and the washer still reads Lid.

OFb

Load out of balance

Common causes: One heavy or bulky item, or uneven loading

What you can try: Let the washer try to correct itself. If it stops, spread the load evenly and press Start/Pause. Use Bulky/Sheets for comforters.

Call a technician if: Normal mixed loads keep going out of balance.

Load too large

Common causes: An overstuffed tub

What you can try: The washer drains automatically. Remove several items, add HE detergent and restart.

Call a technician if: Small loads trigger OL.

Sud / Sd

Excess suds

Common causes: Non-HE detergent, too much detergent, or thickened "no splash" bleach

What you can try: Switch to HE detergent and regular liquid bleach. The washer adds rinses on its own.

Call a technician if: Suds codes continue with correct detergent.

Hot and cold hoses reversed

Common causes: Hoses swapped at the faucets or inlets

What you can try: Turn off the water, swap the hoses and run a cycle to confirm.

Call a technician if: The hoses are correct and HC still shows.

Power failure interrupted the cycle

Common causes: A brief outage or tripped breaker

What you can try: Touch and hold Start to resume, or press Power to clear the display.

Call a technician if: PF appears without any outage.

How to clear the code

Front-load F5 E2, F7 E1, F8 E1: fix the cause, then press Pause/Cancel twice and Power once.
Top-load F# E# codes: press Start/Pause once to clear the code, then again to restart.
Any F# E# code that will not clear: unplug the washer or switch off its breaker for five minutes, reconnect, select a cycle and press Start.
Int on front-loaders: the cycle was paused or canceled. The washer may spin and drain for 20 to 30 minutes before you can clear it.

When a Whirlpool code means it is time for service

Plain-word codes like Sud, OL and LdU are about how the washer is being used. F# E# codes are the control reporting a fault it found in a component. If an F code returns after the five-minute power reset, more resets will not help. That is the point to stop and have the washer tested.

Write the code down exactly as it appears, including both halves if the display alternates. "F9" alone and "F9 E1" can lead a technician to different parts.

Whirlpool washer service in Metro Atlanta

Mr. Fixer repairs Whirlpool washers across Metro Atlanta, from older top-loaders to current front-load models, with genuine parts and a 60-day parts and labor warranty. Learn more on our Whirlpool appliance repair page or see washing machine repair.

Call (678) 866-3669 or book online, and have your model number handy.

Code still showing?

Our technicians repair Whirlpool washers across Metro Atlanta, usually the same day. Diagnostic from $80, credited toward your repair.

Call (678) 866-3669

FAQs

What do the F and E numbers mean on a Whirlpool washer?

The F number points to a system and the E number to a specific fault in that system. For example, F8 E1 is a water fill problem and F9 E1 is a drain problem. Whirlpool treats most F# E# codes as service codes if they return after a reset.

Why does my Whirlpool washer show F8 E1 when the faucets are open?

Common causes are clogged inlet screens, anti-flood hoses that restrict flow, or a drain hose that goes too far into the standpipe and siphons water out while filling. If all of those check out, the inlet valve may be failing.

Is LdL a serious problem on a Whirlpool top-loader?

Usually not. Something under the lid or detergent buildup on the lock is the most common cause. If the lid shuts cleanly and LdL keeps showing, the lid lock itself may need replacement.

Codes and meanings vary by model and model year. Check your owner's manual for your exact model.

Whirlpool Washer Error Codes: What They Mean and How to Fix Them